Hyères Fashion Festival, certified European Linen boosts the catwalk

08 October 2024

Five finalists were enthusiastic about flax this season, integrating it seamlessly into their creative universe. All were sensitive to the responsible and local dimension of the fibre, but it was above all the aesthetic and tactile qualities of flax that inspired them. Discover it for yourself!

39th edition of the Hyères Fashion Festival

Certified European Flax™ or Masters of Linen™ continues to attract the attention of professionals, journalists and designers at the 39th International Fashion, Photography and Accessories Festival. With fashion designers, Linen will once again be in the spotlight.

Hyères Fashion Festival: five finalists and the European Linen

This demonstrates the growing appeal of this plant-based fibre in tomorrow's fashion.
Last year, the Alliance's support bore fruit, with three of the top five winners choosing to work with European Flax-Linen. This testifis to the growing appeal of this plant fibre in tomorrow's fashion.

Five young designers were able to breathe their own creative vision into European Flax, through the interplay of finishes, embroideries and coatings. They explored every aspect of the fabric, including the most unexpected, once again demonstrating the versatility of linen.

With determination and daring, they have chosen demanding fabrics that already have a certain character, resolutely moving away from basics that might have been easier to make their own. Our presentation.

Among them, Gaëlle Lang Halloo (France), stood out with her ‘Abseits’ collection, winning the Prix du public et de la ville de Hyères (Public and  City of Hyères Prize) in the Fashion Winners category at the Hyères Festival 2024.
Men's collection, produced with Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp's support and its members, also Première Vision's members: Lineaesse Tessuti, Riopele Texteis, Tessuti di Sondrio.
As well as with the support of: Olmetex, Emmetex Etichettificio, Supima, Atelier Aymeric Le Deun L'Atelier des Matières, le19M, in collaboration with Paloma and Maison Lesage.

Find out more!


Gaëlle Lang Halloo : "Abseits" collection

GAELLE LANG HALLOO - Hyères Fashion Festival

My collection celebrates France, and I think it's interesting to highlight a material that is rooted in our heritage, so I designed a complete outfit around Flax- Linen. I really wanted my choice of Flax-Linen to bring a
new perspective to sporty styles, and its breathable qualities, which are rarely used in sportswear and streetwear, particularly appealed to me. From head to toe, coated Flax-Linen allowed me to reinterpret accessories and leather goods such as bags, bobs, etc.

Gaelle Lang Halloo

The research for the Abseits collection ("Offside" in German) began after a visit to the "Designing the Beautiful Game" exhibition at the London Design Museum, a revelation for the designer. Although football is a sport with worldwide appeal, its influence on fashion is often overshadowed by that of other disciplines such as basketball, tennis or skateboarding. The contrast between the raw energy of football fans and the elegance of haute couture might seem contradictory, but it is precisely this combination that has inspired the designer. She reinvents everyday sportswear, such as tracksuits and football shirts, to create a link between the two worlds. The collection is a love letter to the style of football and the traditions of French supporters.

Project carried out with the support of the Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp and its members: Lineaesse Tessuti, Riopele Texteis, Tessuti di Sondrio.

Gaelle Lang-Halloo - Collection

Kenshiro Suzuki : collection "Promenades Project"

KENSHIRO SUZUKI Portrait

I prefer Flax-Linen because of its affinity with the body, time, the environment, etc. and its (slight) indeterminacy in terms of design and materiality. Its vegetal and identifiable texture and its colour end up changing, in a good way, becoming softer, which is not necessarily predictable. As I progressed with my collection, I wanted to make everything in Linen - it's a material that inspires me enormously.

Kenshiro Suzuki

Promenades Project is a stroll through a collection of poetic, unisex sportswear. The choice of materials, pattern-making techniques, treatment of fabrics and pattern-making are all meticulously thought through. The collection incorporates sportswear elements, far removed from the quest for performance or a competitive spirit. The designer's approach is to detach the functionality of sportswear from its utilitarian and productive context. The designer has selected several types of Flax-Linen to make almost all of his collection, emphasising the notion of durability, as these materials help to extend the life of the garments. Handcrafted techniques are also used, such as natural dyes, poppy seed oil coatings and stitching that blurs the pattern.
A series of landscape photographs, resulting from a walk "oriented towards disorientation", illustrates the atmosphere of the collection.


Projet réalisé avec le soutien de l’Alliance du Lin et du Chanvre européens et de ses adhérents : Bellandi Spa, Folgarolas Textil, John England, Lemaitre Demeestere, Marini Industrie, Rossi Lorenzo & Figli Srl, Satab, TMG.


La Cage - Victoria Baïa & Victor Koehler : collection "Last Tour"

La Cage _ Victor Koehler and Victoria Baïa

We were already used to using to using old vintage fabrics in raw or bleached Flax-Linen, but our collaboration with the Alliance has given us access to suppliers, which has enabled us to interpret several models in the collection in a creative way. Focusing on suits and stage costumes, we are presenting, for example, a brass band costume made entirely from different qualities of Flax-Linen. These textiles ensure a fall and an intensity of colour that matches our style. Thanks to supplies from Alliance members, we have been able to combine old and new Linen fabrics, which we have patinated, washed and embroidered.

La Cage - Victoria Baia & Victor Koehler

The Last Tour collection is designed in the style of a report on a fictitious music group. The models are the trio's archive pieces. They are relics of concerts, memories of youth, like good luck charms from a touring suitcase whose sentimental value makes us forget its dilapidated state, and which the musicians can't get rid of: a worn-out beige suit, a floppy hat faded by the sun, a crumpled shirt.


Project carried out with the support of the Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp and its members: John England, Leomaster, Libeco, Rossi Lorenzo & Figli Srl, Safilin.


Julie Mouly-Pommerol : "Métamorphose" collection

The Flax-Linen I selected for my collection has an organic character and evokes the roots or grooves of a tree, natural and moving elements which explain my
choice of three references from the supplier John England. I've also created other looks in Flax-Linen, which I'll be wearing during the festival, to be in harmony with my collection.

Julie Mouly-Pommerol

This collection is based on the metaphor that nature is driven by a fierce desire to regain its rights. For, despite man's desire to control it, nature always ends up reclaiming its rights and freeing itself from the constraints imposed on it by man, who draws inspiration from it, draws on it or uses its resources, but is forced to bow down when it imposes its will. With this collection, she pushes man to his limits, drawing him into her metamorphosis. Nature prints, sculpts and escapes from its models, showing itself to be in turn poetic, joyful, colourful and intriguing. Nature bursts forth and imposes itself, raising the question: is it the origin or the extension of clothing?

Project carried out with the support of the Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp and its member: John England.


Lilian Navarro : "Cargo Culte" collection

LILIAN NAVARRO

For me, European-grown Flax-Linen represented an opportunity to work with a sustainable fabric. It was a chance to highlight a fibre with unique properties, which I rediscovered thanks to samples that revealed its creativity. My concept is to reinterpret the weave of a Chanel suit, using Flax-Linen in the idea of a faux jean. It's combined with embroidery work where the materials and cut deceive the eye of the beholder.

Lilian Navarro

This collection reflects the designer's vision of the world around us. It questions our consumption, globalisation and symbolises the journey of a simple banana box that becomes a new material after a long journey. This reflection has led Lilian Navarro to rethink the very design of the garment, looking for clever ways to cut and construct, and reducing the use of fabric. Her collection aims to give value back to the ordinary. Inspired by flat cardboard boxes, the models evolve from 2D to 3D with simplicity. With him, offcuts generate new elements: pockets, collars, ruffles or shoulder yokes. With out-of-the-box designs that are part of a pop and colourful universe dear to the designer, the collection refers to the dress codes of dockers and workwear, the very people who process the journey of these famous cardboard boxes.

Project carried out with the support of the Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp and it member: Lemaitre Demeestere.


The Alliance's Involvement in the Hyères Fashion Festival

As part of its ongoing commitment to the young talent of contemporary fashion, the Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp harnesses the initiative and support of its members, European weavers, spinners and knitters to support emerging talent. Playing the role of industrial and cultural mediator, the Alliance encourages the creativity of the competition's prize-winner hopefuls by facilitating their sourcing of European Flax™ certified Flax-Linen, according to their creative intent. Moreover, for this edition, five of the ten finalists in the Fashion and Accessories competition benefited from the Alliance's support, due its partnership with the festival.

The Alliance is pursuing a number of objectives over a three-year period to facilitate finalists' access to the textile and technical innovations of certified European Flax™ and/or Masters of Linen™. It also supports designers in their sourcing of materials. This year, it will be presented to the festival jury, chaired by Nicolas Di Felice, Artistic Director of Courrèges, a cult house in luxury ready-to-wear.

The Alliance would like to thank all its weaver and spinner members who helped the five finalists by providing them with the raw material resources they needed to develop their creative projects: Bellandi Spa, Familitex, Folgarolas Textil, John England, Leomaster, Lemaitre Demeestere, Lineaesse Tessuti, Libeco, Marini Industrie, Northern Linen, Riopele Texteis, Rossi Lorenzo & Figli Srl, SafilinSatab, Tessuti di Sondrio, TMG.

Hyères International Fashion and Photo Festival - 39th edition
From Thursday 10 to Sunday 13 October 2024 at the Villa Noailles - Hyères

Read our news again: Flax-Linen wins over finalists of the 38th International Festival of Fashion, Photography, and Accessories in Hyères

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